Rebarreling a Remington Model Seven with a Shaw Barrel
Where Accuracy Meets Economy
As much as we
gun cranks love to buy new rifles, whether factory new or used, eventually we
think about screwing on a custom barrel, either to reclaim accuracy lost, obtain
accuracy expected buy never realized, or perhaps just to shoot a different
caliber. For example, there is no shortage of .308 Winchester rifles, but
finding one chambered in .358 Winchester could be a problem. Or suppose you
wanted a Remington Model Seven in .221 Fireball? Rebarreling solves both of
these problems.
I recently
decided to replace the barrel on my .308 Winchester Model Seven. The rifle,
with its 18.5 inch barrel, has never been a varmint rifle, and my intention was
to simply replace the accuracy I had before – 1 to 1 ¼ inch groups at 100 yards.
I have seen Shaw barrels advertised over the years, but had never ordered one.
As wonderful as Shilen barrels are, I decided to try a barrel from ER Shaw,
mostly because I wanted to use this rifle for a red stag hunt in Scotland and
Shaw promised that they could have the rifle back to me in 4 weeks, leaving me a
month to develop loads and get ready for the hunt. And I was a bit curious, and
I thought readers might be as well, as to how these “econo” barrels would
perform – after all, with the exception of the rebarreling options available
with a Savage, it is difficult to think of a less expensive means to screw on a
new barrel than ER Shaw.
After a few
discussions with Carl Behling, the owner of ER Shaw, I sent the barreled action
to his company with a note detailing what I wanted. Carl told me that they
could match Remington factory contours, which I thought might eliminate the
requirement to rebed the rifle. Even though my 18.5 inch barrel seemed to get
impressive velocities, I opted for a 20 inch barrel – an additional 1 ½ inches
seemed to hold more promise than problem. Besides, the rifle would still be a
trim, as the Remington Model Seven is one of the “shortest” short actions
available. I ordered a chrome-moly barrel as well.
As the month of
August rolled by and no brown UPS truck showed up at my doorstep, I became
increasingly nervous. I had already applied for my UK gun permit for the .308,
and while I could use the estate rifle for my stag hunt, I really did not want
to do that. Three weeks before I was to leave for my hunt, the barreled action
arrived. I unwrapped the package and inspected the contents.
The bluing job
was wonderful – deep and lustrous, but not shiny. I had stripped the screw
heads on the scope base, and was pleased to see Shaw had replaced them. I
mounted a 1.75-6x Leupold scope on the rifle after reattaching the stock, which
did not appear to need any rebedding. I checked by coating the barreled action
with old lipstick, which works wonderful as a marking agent. To do this, I coat
the bottom of an action, then carefully insert it into the stock and tighten the
action screws. Next, I loosen the action screws, take the stock off, and
inspect the action. If the lipstick is not smeared evenly on the metal (it will
have a “puckered” texture where it has contacted the stock), then the bedding
needs work. These days if that is the case, I just rebed the whole action using
Brownell’s Steel Bed bedding compound. But I didn’t have to do this: the
barrel contour matched the original perfectly, at least for the first 1 ½ inches
– past this the barrel was floated.
In .308 I
prefer 150 or 165 grain bullets. Since I had a box of 165 grain Hornady BTSPs,
I started with them. I have long preferred ball powders for the .308 for the
same reason I prefer them for the .223 Remington – they meter easy and when you
shoot a lot of cartridges that is important. I started with Ramshot’s TAC and
Hodgdon’s H335.
Table 1 – Shaw .308 Winchester Loads
Bullet
Powder
Group (100 yards)
150 gr Nosler Partition
48.0 Re15
.87
150 gr Nosler Partition
47.0 H335
1.05
165 gr Sierra
46.5 Re15
.65
165 gr Seirra
46.0 Varget
1.14
165 gr Hornady
46.0 Varget
1.17
180 gr Nosler BT
44.2 Varget
.49
To say my initial results were disappointing would be an
understatement; the rifle grouped anywhere from 2 to 3 inches. I tried other
bullets, moving up to 180 grain bullets and trying Sierras pills as well. I
included extruded powders such as Varget as well. Nothing seemed to work.
Finally, in desperation, I removed the scope and checked the scope base mount
screws...the one that ER Shaw had so graciously fixed. It was loose. I banged
my head on the loading bench three times for assuming the mount was firmly
attached. I removed the mount, degreased the screws, and reattached the base.
I headed back to the loading bench and worked up some new loads.
Viola! Group
size shrank like the market cap of a dot com company. Sierra 165s were good,
but Nosler 180 grain Ballistic Tips under 44.2 grains of Varget were outstanding
– after a few very sub-MOA groups off the bench, I loaded up a couple dozen
cartridges and headed to the desert for some field practice. I put a cardboard
box 200 yards away. The wind was blowing slightly to the right and varied as I
squeezed off three shots from the sitting position with a tight sling. My first
shot hit 2 inches to the right of center; the next two were dead on. I fired
three more shots and could not believe my eyes when I saw that 5 of my 6 shots
were right on the money, clumped into a 2 inch group no less. Muzzle velocity
was just a shade under 2600 fps.
A few days
later I headed back out for some more practice. That day I shot my best ever 3
shot 200 yard group from the sitting position with a tight sling – an
unbelievable 3/8 inch group. Of course, this was totally lucky, as this
translates into a group in the 1’s at 100 yards. My next step was to move out
to 300 yards.
One of the
virtues of Leupold Vari-X III scopes is the amount the duplex reticle subtends
from post to crosshair – it is always 8 inches at 300 yards when the scope is
cranked to its maximum power (with the exception of the 6.5-20X). This is
necessary because one of the attributes of this scope is its range estimation
reticle – as the power ring is turned, one can estimate the range to a 16 inch
deep target by bracketing the top of the lower vertical post to the crosshair
intersection. In addition to the scope magnification, the power ring indicates
the range at which this 16 inch subtension occurs. These numbers range from 2
to 6, which correspond to ranges from 200 yards (at the lowest power) to 600
yards (at the highest power). At maximum power, the post to crosshair
subtension is 16 inches at 600 yards, or 8 inches at 300 yards.
And therein lay
the beauty of these scopes, because the world is full of cartridges that drop
about 8 inches at 300 yards when zeroed at 200 yards. Most 55 grain .224
bullets at 3200 fps drop 8 inches, as do most 180 grain bullets at 2900 fps. My
.308 Winchester, firing Nosler BTs at 2600 fps drop only one inch more, or 9
inches at 300 yards. I can compensate for this by either zeroing for 220 yards
(which results in an 8 inch drop at 300 yards) or by simply realizing the bullet
strikes slightly lower than the post tip at 300 yards. Hitting a target at 300
yards is as simple as getting the range, cranking the scope to 6x (its maximum),
and planting the post of the duplex right where I want the bullet to hit. After
a few practice sessions at 300 yards, I moved out to 400 yards, more out of
curiosity than necessity. You see, in Scotland the head gamekeeper, or stalker,
will not let you shoot much beyond 200 yards. After all, that is why it is
called stalking.
At 400 yards
from the sitting position with a tight sling, I had no trouble at all keeping my
shots inside 4 inches, at least in calm conditions. In fact, the last time I
shot this way at 400 yards I shot a 3 shot group that measured less than 3
inches! After lots of practice, I can hit a clay pigeon nearly every time from
a sitting position at 400 yards, providing the wind is not too strong (5 mph or
less).
The results of
my stag hunt are really outside the scope of The VARMINT HUNTER Magazine, but
let’s just say the rifle performed flawlessly. I shot four stags and all
succumbed rather quickly to the 180 grain bullet. A few weeks later I took the
rifle with me to Minnesota and shot a very nice 9 point (Eastern count)
whitetail from 40 yards. I had a chance to shoot a doe as well, but just as I
was ready to pull the trigger on a nice fat one on the last day of the season
she caught my scent and bolted.
Following the
close of the big game hunting season, I began to wring it out at ranges beyond
400 yards. In a nutshell, it is a quite simple to hit targets out to 600 yards.
At 700 yards, the wind becomes such a factor that hitting a pie plate with any
consistency is difficult in a moderate wind. After all, the bullet drifts 4.6
inches for every one mph of wind at that range! In other words, a dead-center
hold on a paper plate can blow completely off of the plate with a wind that is
virtually undetectable. I love shooting one bullet each at 400, 500, 615, and
700 yards – it is great practice.
I also went back to the bench to see what kind of accuracy
I could wring out of other loads. I had no trouble getting Sierra and Hornady
bullets to shoot sub-MOA groups, but nothing to match the incredible accuracy of
the 180 grain Nosler BT over 44.2 grains of Varget. Incidentally, I now use
Varget in my .220 Swift, .308 Winchester, and the .300 SAUM. I use a Redding BR-30
to throw charges for the .308 and an RCBS automatic dispensing system for the
other two cartridges, but I must say, the accuracy of the charges thrown with
the Redding BR-30 is outstanding.
I love this
“new” .308 Winchester so much it is now my constant companion for practice
sessions. It is now my “walking varminter” not so much for the cartridge as for
the rifle. Just yesterday I headed out to the desert for some rock shooting. I
shot one shot each at 500, 615, and 700 yards, all from the sitting position
with a tight sling. The bullet at 615 would have killed a PD, while all three
would have killed a deer.
How happy am I
with this barrel? Very happy, to say the least. That is not to say I will
never use other barrels, because I will. But super accurate barrels, such as
Shilen, cost more than Shaw barrels, and may not fit the budget of every reader.
For those who need to screw on another tube at an affordable price, Shaw seems
to hold promise. And while one barrel is hardly statistically significant,
remember that Norm Johnson wrote about Shaw barrels recently and was similarly
impressed.
If you have any
comments about this article or otherwise want to correspond, you can reach me at
antanies@envoydevelopment.com. Have fun shooting.