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The first screw
I adjust is the weight of pull screw. Cock the trigger by lifting and closing
the bolt. Backing the screw out will lighten the trigger pull, because it
elongates the return spring. Back out the screw and test the pull either by
feel or with a trigger pull gauge until it feels right. If you cannot cock the
rifle, it means you have backed the adjustment screw out too far - screw it back
in until you can cock the rifle. The sear adjustment screw, the one on the back
of the trigger housing, also controls the trigger pull – specifically, it is
used to control creep, or trigger movement before sear release. However, it
also contributes to the weight of pull, because it controls the bearing surface
between the middle lever and the trigger (in other words, it controls the how
much metal to metal contact there is). Screwing in the sear engagement screw
reduces the amount of creep, or the amount of trigger travel before breaking the
sear. Moving the sear engagement screw in too far will result in an inability
to cock the rifle (I usually play with both the weight of pull screw and sear
engagement screw to achieve the desired trigger pull). One criticism I have of
the Remington trigger is the amount of goop they put on the sear engagement
screw – I have dinged up several trying to turn them.
The next step
in adjusting a trigger is the most important – ensuring safety. I run through
several tests, the most basic of which is cocking the action by lifting and
closing the bolt. If the action does not stay cocked when cocking the action
very quickly, the trigger pull is too light. If the action passes this test, I
then lift the bolt, pull it back to the rear, and slam it forward as fast and
forcefully as possible. If the gun stays cocked after several iterations of
this step, you are almost home free. The next step is to cock the rifle, grab
it by the barrel, and slam the gun against the floor. If the sear releases, the
trigger pull is too light. Finally, if it passes all of these tests, cock the
rifle and put the safety on “safe.” Now lightly touch the trigger and push the
safety forward. If the sear releases, it is time to go back to the drawing
board.
After
establishing a safe trigger pull, backlash adjustment is next on the agenda.
This step is simple – cock the rifle, then screw the backlash adjustment screw
all the way in. Now, with the screwdriver in one hand engaged in the backlash
screw, pull the trigger with the other hand. The rifle will not release the
trigger, but keep pressing on it and slowly back out the backlash adjustment
screw until the sear falls. Cock the rifle and press the trigger a few times to
ensure the firing pin falls. You are now finished adjusting the trigger. The
last step is to cement the screws with any agent that will freeze the screws in
place so they don’t move. I use fingernail polish; anything that can later be
removed will work.
If you are not
satisfied with your trigger adjustment efforts (if, for example, you cannot
safely achieve a trigger light enough for your needs), you have two options…you
can replace the factory original trigger, or you can send the action to a
qualified gunsmith. I recently had Gordy Gritters bed a Shilen-barreled .220
Swift for me, and for a mere $10 he replaced the original weight of pull screw
with one that allowed the trigger pull to be adjusted much lighter than what was
otherwise safe. Having a quality ‘smith such as Gordy do your trigger work is
certainly a fail-proof solution. (Incidentally, after breaking in the barrel,
the first group out of that gun, a factory load, shot in the three’s!)
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