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DISCLAIMER:
The
Outdoor Writer presents this story to explain how the Remington
700 trigger works as a service to those who are wondering. Readers
should bring their guns to a qualified gunsmith to have their
triggers adjusted. The
Outdoor Writer assumes no liability for any triggers adjusted in
an unsafe manner.” |
The first
centerfire rifle I ever bought was not a Remington 700, but few since have been
anything but, and most of those exceptions have been Rugers. A 700 SS in .338
Winchester has since replaced one of those, a Ruger 77 in the same caliber. And
I did have a love affair with a Ruger 1B with a gorgeous piece of walnut in 7mm
Remington Magnum, but that gun is gone as well. Someday I am going to get a 1B
in .223 Remington; I might even slap a nice piece of walnut or even maple on it.
I have often dreamed of a Mauser action varmint gun in .223 with a full-length
stock as well. Lately, I cannot get my mind off a .416 Remington Magnum Model
70 Winchester for my next trip to Africa; a controlled round action on a heavy
rifle seems like a natural. But otherwise, I am a dyed-in-the-wool Remington
700 fan.
How come? In
one word: accuracy. I have never had a 700 that I could not get to shoot well.
The action is easy to bed and the barrels seem to be quite accurate for factory
jobs. But a lot of the reason I have had good luck with Remington 700’s is the
trigger – it is easy to adjust for a nearly perfect trigger pull. But in these
litigious times, the trigger comes from the factory heavy and creepy. Luckily
for us, the trigger is relatively easy to adjust. What we will do in this
article is tear into the trigger… how to adjust it, check it for safety, and how
to replace it.
Before we dive
into specifics, let’s spend some time defining the terms used to describe
triggers and trigger pull. A good trigger pull has often been described as akin
to breaking a glass rod – the rod will not move when bent until it breaks. Just
like the glass rod, a good trigger will not move perceptibly until the firing
pin falls. We call movement before the trigger breaks “creep.” A creepy
trigger then, is one that has perceptible movement before the sear breaks. The
“weight of pull” or simply “weight,” is the amount of pressure required to break
the trigger. Finally, the term “backlash” is meant to describe how much the
trigger moves after the sear falls.
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