The Outdoor Writer 

 

Home
Up
Hunting Stories
Shooting Stories
Links

Ice Fishing for Pike

It Just Might Be the Best Way to Catch a Lunker

 

 

The cold was nearly insufferable as we set up the tip-ups; water that splashed out of the holes that we had drilled instantly froze around our pant cuffs, turning them to cardboard.   But soon after we dropped the last minnow into the frozen lake we were sipping hot coffee in my marquis outdoor vehicle – an ’83 Bronco.  As we clutched hot mugs of coffee with frozen fingers, fellow writer Steve Mattson and I barely had enough time to thaw our lips when an orange flag sprung free.

 

“Flag,” Steve blurted, nearly spitting out his coffee. 

 

We both jumped out of the truck and ran to the hole.  I broke the ice already forming around the tip-up spindle and then carefully raised it above the ice.  This fish was running...but a few minutes later the spool slowed to a halt.   Cautiously, I took the up the slack until it was tight, then jerked the line to set the hook.  I could feel the sharp hook bury itself into the toothy maw of a huge northern pike.  The boxing match began.  As he countered my hookset by taking more line, I pinched the line between my fingers to fashion a drag of sorts and applied as much pressure as I dared.  A few minutes later the tug-of-war reversed course and I was able to reclaim nearly all of the line.  But as so often happens, when the fish got close to the ice, it thrust its tail in a last-ditch attempt to escape, forcing me to once again surrender more line.  Hand-over-hand I pulled back the line once again until the big green head with the cream colored chin popped onto the ice.

 

Few fish capture the imagination of anglers as much as the northern pike.  The mere mention of its name conjures up summer images of a toothy predator suspended below lily pads.  To be sure, a big northern is a must-have for every serious angler.  But unlike other glamour fish, he is actually easier to catch in the winter than the summer.

 

Ice fishing for pike is popular because it is effective and doesn’t require a huge investment in gear.  A lot of fuss is made these days about the importance of electronics when ice fishing.  Well, maybe it helps for crappies and other panfish, but it adds little to the pursuit of pike.  More important than a boatload of electronic gear is technique and knowledge of where to fish.  For example, first ice means hot action if you fish shallow bays.  In the middle of the winter, deep water holds fish.  In the spring, dead smelt on the bottom rings the dinner bell for pike tipping the scales at 20 lbs.  Let’s review each of these in more detail.

 

First Ice

First ice sparkles – it is a magical time to catch fish.  In northern Minnesota, first ice often occurs in November; in other states it often occurs after the first of the year.  First ice, like last ice, demands a bit of caution.  Cold weather is one thing, but plunge through the ice and you will know immediately when pike aren’t worth it.  Most readers have seen charts that indicate required ice thickness; most are very conservative, for obvious reasons.  What is actually very important but almost never mentioned is the danger of air pockets under ice.  Ice has no tensile strength; if it is not floating on water, it is unsafe at any thickness.  Luckily, air pockets under ice are quite rare.  As long as you have clear ice 3-4 inches thick and water comes out of a freshly drilled hole, it is safe for you to walk on.  You will need more ice to drive on, but in early season you don’t need to drive on the ice, because pike favor shallow bays often located close to parking locations.  I never fish water deeper than 15 feet in the early part of the season.  Bays that contain weedbeds are often best; just don’t fish in the weeds themselves. 

 

Live bait is best for early season pike.  Most anglers use shinners or small sucker minnows, with the nod going to shiners.  Hook them under the dorsal fin and place them one foot above the bottom.  Add enough weight to keep them from swimming to the top.  I prefer tip-ups, but jigging rods are often a very good choice – jigging is a definite advantage, and during the early season the weather is usually warm enough that staying outside is not a problem.  A jigging spoon tipped with a fillet from a sucker or shiner minnow is often very effective.  In most states you can fish two rods, allowing you to jig one and fish either a tip-up or another rod.

 

Big fish like big minnows.  Those who spearfish for pike (where legal) often buy foot-long sucker minnows.  Unfortunately, tip-up fishermen cannot use these, because the big minnows trip the flag.  At least until recently.   A few years ago I invented a unique method of fishing with big minnows using tip-ups.    Figure 1 shows details for this tip-up, which I call the clip tip-up, and the sidebar describes its construction.

Figure 1:  How to Construct a Clip Tip-Up for Fishing with Big Baits

 

To use the clip tip-up, rig a decoy or other large minnow on the terminal tackle end.  I like to use two single hooks on bigger minnows – I pass one hook through the bait’s lips and the other just below the dorsal fin.  Using two wire leaders attached to each other makes this easy.  Lower the minnow down the hole to the depth you want.  Remember that early season fish are usually in shallow water.  When you achieve the correct depth, clip the line to the vertical piece of wire using the downrigger clip; this will keep the fish on the line until a big pike snaps it off.  Set the flag as you normally would and get ready for a fight!  Using this rig I have caught lots of big pike as well as pike that seem to barely capable of swallowing the decoy minnow, which makes me wonder how large a bait can get before it becomes too big.

 

Mid-Winter

By the time old man winter thickens the ice and dumps a layer or two of snow on the ice, pike leave the shallows for deeper water.  Locating them is much tougher, and they seem to be lethargic when you do find them.  If your opportunity to fish in the winter is limited, this time of year is one you should pass if it means forfeiting early or late season trips.

 

Deep water is hard to prospect, so I like to look for natural funnel points.  For example, a saddle connecting two deep areas is a good place to intercept pike moving from one area to another.  I normally use tip-ups during this period for a couple of reasons.  I can drive on the ice, which allows me to stay mobile.  And just as importantly, it is cold out – tending a rod is just too painful.  Even portable shelters limit mobility, because they take time to setup.  I use live shiners close to the bottom for best results, but dead smelt or other oily fish on the bottom also produce results.

 

Cold weather freezes water quickly – whether it is the hole in the ice, the water on a rod’s guides, or the line on a reel.  Any of these conditions makes fishing difficult.  Using a tip-up solves almost all of these weather-related problems, especially if you fashion a cover to insulate the ice hole.  Another good technique to prevent frozen tip-ups is to kick snow over the hole.  This provides an insulation layer that slows down the rate of freezing.  In the past anglers have used anti-freeze and other eco-unfriendly substances to prevent freezing.  Not only are such methods a bad idea from an environmental standpoint, they are illegal.

 

Late Winter

Late winter or early spring is my favorite time to ice fish for pike.  They congregate in bays 20-35 feet deep near shallow water.  These bays are often adjacent to the same shallow water that these fish prefer right after first ice.  While live bait produces an occasional fish, the best bait by far this time of year is dead smelt or ciscoes.   Fish these with minimum weight right on the bottom using a quick-strike rig.  A quick-strike rig will allow you to set the hook as soon as you sense a bite, be it from a tip-up or a rod. 

 

Quick-strike rigs are best fashioned using large paper clips or a piece of wire. Straighten a paper clip and then bend a small loop at one end.  Next, take a wire leader and attach a 3/0 hook to one end.  Insert the swivel on the other end of the leader through the loop on the paper clip.  What you now have is a straight piece of wire (the paper clip) with a loop on one end attached to a steel leader that has a hook on its other end.  Carefully insert the free end of the paper clip wire into the smelt’s mouth and push until it exits in the rear of the fish.  Grab this end of the paper clip and pull it through the smelt until the wire leader passes through the body of the bait and the hook attached to the wire leader enters the smelt’s mouth.  Now position the hook so that when you pull the leader the hook buries itself into the smelt’s forehead.  Attach another hook on the opposite end of the leader, and bury this in the tail of the fish.  Now attach the whole works to another wire leader and you are ready to go.

 

Unlike live bait, there is no need to let a pike run and swallow the bait.  Just set the hook as soon as you detect the fish picking up the bait.  Fish hooked using a quick strike rig are almost always mouth-hooked, so if your intention is to catch and release, this is the perfect setup.

 

I have also used live bait in late winter, but the results never match those using dead oily baits such as ciscoes.  In fact, dead ciscoes are also a great bait in shallow bays right after ice-out.

 

While others prefer catching dainty little sunfish or perch, a small subset of winter anglers pursue pike. A trip into the frigid climate of winter for a try at big pike may not always be successful, but the rewards outweigh the costs.  Big fish, big baits, big fun.  With few exceptions, my biggest pike always come from under the ice.

 
 

Google

 

Home ] Up ]

Send mail to info@theoutdoorwriter.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 2004 The Outdoor Writer