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The rich cool green water flowed deep, in contrast to the thin soil all around
that seemed barely capable of supporting the sparse cactus and other desert
flora. From the trail high above the river I spied a natural wing dam, a
perfect holding area for trout. Pat and I picked up the pace, anxious to get
down to the pool before the sun burned into the canyon. The temperature was
already warming up. Recalling that we had started in snow the day before, I
smiled to myself at the magic of Arizona – land of many ecosystems.
We dropped our packs at the river’s edge, joined our rods, and quickly tied on
Kastmasters, a small, heavy spoon. I crouched low and walked over the rocky
outcrop that formed the wing dam, then flicked open my bail and softly cast to
the top of the pool. The lure sank quickly even in the heavy current. I slowly
reeled...seconds later a frisky trout scooped up the lure and turned to the
middle of the river.
Even a modest fish feels big when it turns broadside in a fast moving river, and
this one proved no exception to that rule. My little ultra-light bowed deeply
as he added the current of the river to his own strength. But this was not a
brush choked stream in the Midwest...the only way this fish was getting away was
if I pulled the lure out of its mouth. A few minutes later I pulled him to the
rocky shore. Removing the lure, I broke its neck, then gutted him with my birch-handled
Rapala fillet knife and placed the fish in a rock depression. Within a half
hour I caught nearly a dozen fish, after which I sat on a rock to watch young
Pat work the water and marvel at what a gem we had found.
Sometimes in fishing, as in life, we experience events that we know will be
forever etched into our minds. That first really big rainbow trout caught at
Schmidt’s farm pond…or the first largemouth landed without Dad’s help…and later,
the first Chinook salmon in Alaska as a young army officer. Or the first time
you walk back into time, down the worn paths of the Grand Canyon, to a storied
river named the Colorado. Just like the Kenai in Alaska, its green hue and
rushing current makes it special before you even wet a line. But best of all,
it’s the memories of fat chunky trout taken with nearly every cast that make an
indelible impression on the mind of a trout fisherman.
While lots of fishing these days requires an expensive boat or equally expensive
lodge visit, it’s nice to know there is a cheap alternative that offers fishing
as good as it gets, and found right where millions of families vacation every
year. The drawback? You have to be willing to walk six to ten miles each way
to get it. But the trails are easy, the scenery fantastic, and the fishing
uncrowded. Floating for trout on the Colorado River gets so much press these
days it is hard to imagine that an angler can be successful fishing from shore,
but not only can just about anyone catch fish from the shore, there is no
creel limit within most of the canyon itself.
The Grand Canyon is located in the northern part of Arizona. Carved millions of
years ago by the Colorado River, it is located on the pine covered Colorado
plateau. The erosion that forms the canyon exposes nearly 2 billion years of
the earth’s history. The Grand Canyon runs east-west, so access is from what is
called the North Rim or the South Rim. The South Rim is 1000 feet lower than
the North Rim, making access is a bit easier. The National Park Service charges
$20 per vehicle to enter the park. Permits are required to camp, and they must
be arranged ahead of time. Camping permits are $10 per group and $5 per night
per person. You can apply for a permit on-line at http://reservations.nps.gov/.
From the South Rim, the easiest access is down Kaibab trail. After parking your
vehicle, grab your pack and rods and catch a ride on the park shuttle bus to the
trailhead. In the winter, you will often encounter snow as you drop over the
rim. Dropping down onto the trail, Ponderosa pine country quickly disappears.
The first few miles of the trail are literally carved from sheer cliff. But the
trail is plenty wide and contains enough switchbacks to make the descent angle
relatively gentle. An occasional scrub conifer pokes its way out of the rock.
Be sure to wear shoes with good traction, as there is sometimes snow and some
ice for the first mile or two during the winter months. A hiking staff helps;
if you don’t have one, ski poles work as well.
After a mile and a half you will come to a lookout. Be sure to climb on the big
rock and drink in the expanse of the Canyon. From here, the trail is less
steep. The snow and ice decrease, but often the mud increases – gaiters help to
keep mud off your legs. Of course, in the summer, you have neither ice nor
snow. You are now well below the treeline. As you descend down the Canyon, the
temperature warms. Soon any trace of snow ends, if any existed at all.
After three miles the trail will flatten even more. You are now below the Outer
Canyon, in a chunk of country that looks remarkably similar to the sagebrush
country of Wyoming. The bench that forms this part of the canyon is the result
of a layer of rock that was far more resistant to erosion. After a few miles
the flat ground once again gives way to steeper terrain – you are entering the
inner canyon. You now catch your first glimpse of the Colorado River, an
inanimate stream of green, but not a quiet one, for the roar of the river is now
audible. By now the temperature is pleasant if not warm.
An hour or two later you will reach the bottom of the canyon. A suspension
bridge delivers you across the river to the Bright Angel Creek campground. Now
comes the real fun.
The Colorado River is loaded with trout. Unlike some streams, the trout far
outnumber the anglers and they are incredibly aggressive. The Colorado itself
flows quickly in most places, so you will want to use a lure that sinks quickly
– I like the dense spoons like Kastmasters. A small Pixie is good too. Like
their brethren in other waters, these trout like to lie behind anything that
shields them from the current. But unlike clear waters, the trout in the
green-colored Colorado do not seem to be as concerned about overhead cover. Pay
particular attention to any deep pool, as well as areas behind rocks. Spinners
work well in pools. I have never used live bait in the Colorado, but I have
used Berkley Power Bait with good results.
If you are a fly-fisherman, be sure to bring a sinking line and some
lead-wrapped streamers. Nymphs are good choices as well. I have yet to see a
hatch on the Colorado, but they certainly occur. Unlike many brush-choked steam
banks of the Midwest, fly fishermen enjoy banks devoid of high bushes and trees.
While I have always enjoyed steady action, I have yet to catch a monster, so my
tackle is sized accordingly. I usually bring two rods: one lightweight spinning
rod, and a light fly rod. Sometimes I substitute an ultralight spinning rod for
the fly rod. I prefer 4 or 6 pound test line, favoring the former.
You need not bring waders or hip boots on the long walk through time – they
offer no advantage, and beside, weight is critical. Polarized sunglasses are
not only beneficial, they are practically mandatory. Of course, you will want
to bring a very lightweight tent and lightweight sleeping bag and pad. We
usually bring dehydrated food as well as plenty of fresh fruit, bagels, and
cheese. Evening meals always consist of trout, normally poached to keep clean
up easy. Since the hike is all downhill to the river, bringing heavy
consumables is not as much of a problem as it would be going uphill.
Currently there is no limit on the number of fish you may kill when fishing in
Canyon between the South Kaibab trail and the Bright Angel trail, but kill only
what you eat. I have packed a few trout out of the canyon, but keeping them
fresh is a significant challenge. Taking advantage of the snow at the top helps
a little, but the first 2/3 of your hike up the canyon offers nothing to help
cool the fish. In the summer it is impossible to keep fish fresh.
There are several trails to choose when deciding how to descend to the river,
but for first timers, there really is only one choice: the South Kaibab trail.
The Bright Angel trail is also an option, but it is 9 miles from the south rim
to the campground, as opposed to the 6 mile trail on the South Kaibab. However,
if you get an early start, Bright Angel is probably a better option, since the
fishing at the intersection of this trail and the Colorado River is fantastic.
After catching dinner, the campground is an easy hike over relatively flat
ground.
All camping is by permit only. Open fires are prohibited throughout the Grand
Canyon, so be sure to bring a portable gas stove. There is an ample supply of
treated water at the campground, but bring enough on the way down to quench your
thirst – normally, two quarts is plenty, except in the summer, when four is
better. While the two major trails mentioned above normally have water
supplies, they are often shut off during winter months.
Experienced hikers may want to try some of the less used trails such as the
Boucher and Hermit trails. These trails are less traveled, and consequently
sometimes difficult to follow, but the reward is more solitude, both during the
hike, as well as the camping (the fishing rarely offers any competition, even
when using the major trails).
Permits are required to camp in the canyon. While it is theoretically possible
to hike to the bottom of the canyon, fish, and hike back out in one day, I would
not recommend it. My better half, Catherine, once hiked down the south side,
crossed the river, went up the north side, overnighted, then descended down the
north side and up the south side – all in two days. So while it is possible to
make a day trip, it does not leave much time for fishing, and in my opinion, the
fishing is what puts this hike on the map.
A hike down the Grand Canyon may seem intimidating, but the trails, at least
Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails, are well laid out. The biggest danger is
dehydration in the summer months - bring plenty of water bottles. A good pair
of boots is obviously a must, but the newer lightweight hiking shoes are fine.
Rain has never been a problem for me; we don’t even bring raingear, but do pack
polypropylene just in case we get wet.
Upon your arrival you will see hordes of tourist; most of them will not step one
foot below the rim. Take joy in that, because you are about to experience one
of the best wilderness deals in the entire trout fishing world. The
transformation from a sea of tourists to the solitude of the inner canyon is
nearly a religious experience. And so is the fishing.
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